Luxury Nomad Itinerary Hokkaido Island, Japan

We love Japanese seafood and we love onsen. With this in mind we decided to start our three week adventure in Japan on the island of Hokkaido. We traveled in May, which means that the cherry blossoms, having already past their prime and fallen to the earth in the rest of the county, were still in bloom on the island of Hokkaido. Spring was slow to arrive on Hokkaido island so we were happy we decided to bring our puffy jackets.

Hokkaido is Japan’ssecond largest island and comprises the largest and northernmost prefecture, making up its own region.^[1] The Tsugaru Strait separates Hokkaidō from Honshu; the two islands are connected by the undersea railway Seikan Tunnel.

Landing in Chitose (CTS) we made an easy connection in the Chitose airport for a train to Sapporo. The train ride was about 30 mins and train travel is Japan is super comfortable. Small snacks and drinks (beers!) are served on every leg.

We reserved a room at the Sapporo Cross Hotel which is virtually across the street from the train. We chose this hotel for its close proximity to the train station and its rooftop onsen. Jet lag is far more palatable with onsite onsen and a hearty breakfast at the historic Nijo Fish Market (more on this later).

Dinner at Kani Honke Sapporo Station Ekimae is a blur, but a very happy blur as the restaurant was adorned with a gigantic animatronic crabs (kani is crab in Japanese). We were sat in a private room (Koshitsu) and ordered a sashimi dinner set that included a dish of raw crab (a first for us!). The raw kani was scrumptious, tasting sweet with a soft texture and a slight briny finish. There are countless restaurants specializing in kani evidenced by several gigantic sculptural crabs attached to downtown buildings, but we would highly recommend Kani Honke Sapporo Station Ekimae.

We returned to the hotel to try out the onsen and try to sleep. Be sure to check the hotel’s onsen schedule to plan your soaks and maximize your soaking time. When were were there certain times were for men and others were for women. The views from the onsen windows were amazing.

Consider starting your day with an onsen soak session, then a stroll to the Nijo Fish Market for breakfast. Choose from one of the several sit-down restaurants or snack as you walk from street-style vendors of both fish and fruits. We were drawn to a particular restaurant, as it was already crowded at 8AM and offered the famed hairy crab. Murray could not resist the whole crab and I opted for a Kaisendon loaded with generous portions of ultra fresh uni, ikura, scallop, and kani. We were beside ourselves with pure and unbridled delight.

You can easily divide these activities across additional days, we, however, were headed for the coast. First though, RAMEN. We could not leave Sapporo without eating in the famous Ramen Alley. Be prepared to order via a machine that looks similar to a mid-century cigarette machine with photos of ramen bowls where packs of smokes would otherwise be positioned. A Hokkaido spin adds butter and corn to the miso ramen with splendid and tasty results. Any shop you wander into is sure to please your palate. 

Often the best memories are created when you are just wandering around with no exact plan. Otaru is a great place to do just that. Stroll the canals in the town center and discover shops and snacks at every turn. One of the most memorable highlights of our entire trip to Japan was lunch at a tiny counter (Sawasaki Suisan) tucked back into an unassuming shopping center just off the canal.

Look carefully or you might miss Sawasaki Suisan and its enigmatic chef/owner who will welcome you with the biggest smile, excellent portions, and the freshest selections of fish. His seafood donburi (Kaisendon) was second to none, which in Hokkaido is saying a lot. Massive scoops of ikura, giant scallops, monster crab legs, and uni (don’t forget the uni). Some of the tastiest and most sought after sea urchins in the entire world are plucked from the waters that surround Otaru. 

You’ll be so cocooned and content with the smiling service and sincere hospitality that you might not want to leave, but leave you must, as there is more of Otaru to explore.

Wind your way back down to the canal and pick a direction. Shops offering fine wares and the famous Otaru glass abound. Shop until you’ve worked up a thirst. If you haven’t wandered to far, you’ll still be close to Otaru Beer Warehouse No.1 which resided on the banks of the picturesque canal. The flagship outpost of Otaru Brewery will make you think you’ve stepped through a portal and been transported to Germany. The fully functional and amazingly beautiful copper tanks anchor the room while traditional German Bierhalle fare of baked pretzels and wursts satisfy your meaty-cravings. Perhaps pick up a souvenir treasure like mine, a traditional German-style stein emblazoned with the Otaru Brewing insignia. Otaru Brewing’s Warehouse No. 1 was a mindbending treat.